Monday, January 14, 2019

金色不如帰 (Hototogisu in Shinjuku)

金色不如帰


Hototogisu is back and better than ever!



Well, the new photo policy put a damper on a proper video, but it is important to respect the shops you visit.


Hototogisu spent over 11 years in Hatagaya and was one of the ramen scene's gems. Critics loved it. I loved it. Michelin loved it. Michelin loved it so much, in fact, that they anointed this small shop with a coveted star in 2018. Hototogisu is the third shop to be given a Michelin star, behind Tsuta and Nakiryu


What makes ramen of this caliber? Insane detail in the soup, exquisite homemade noodles, and unique toppings.

And for those who think all it takes is some truffle oil to grab Michelin's attention, there is some white truffle oil added as an accent to the shio ramen along with porcini mushroom and Inca berries. The Inca berries are a new twist for the new location.


The soup is a three-part deal. There's is the standard bone broth, in this case, made with mostly chicken. There's the wadashi, Japanese dashi broth made with dried fish and konbu kelp. And there's the clam broth made with clams from Mie Prefecture.


The clams are what put this one over the top. It is such a nice balance of umami and aromas. A real treat.


Lines are now, as expected, quite insane. My advice is to arrive an hour before they open and start waiting.


They have also opened branches in Toronto and Singapore. Someone let me know how they are!