Monday, April 9, 2012

Ramen America

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It's not often I venture back stateside. There are so many new and interesting things to see in Japan, and other Asian destinations are only a few hours away. But three years is a long time. Three years since I set foot anywhere near my hometown of San Francisco, California.

Spring break is long enough to make a bit of a voyage. Time for more than just family and friends. Time for ramen.

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So what about the state of ramen in America? I've heard about the so-called American ramen boom for the last few years, ever since Ippudo opened in New York. But the demand for good ramen hasn't necessarily led to a supply of good ramen. Sure, new spots are constantly in the works, but the fact that the worst possible ramen in Japan would still garner a line out the door in America means that things are going to progress, well . . . unexpectedly.

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Don't forget that America is big. And just as noodle eating culture varies greatly over a distance of a few hundred kilometers here in nihon, every city in the States brings their own eating style to the plate. Having been to four spots this time around, I can safely say that the ramen-views reflect the general food-views area by area. At least in Hawaii, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and New York.

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Hawaiian ramen, better known as saimin, is reminiscent of the loco-mocos and plate lunches the locals eat. Strong flavors influenced by a mix of Asian, Polynesian, and American tastes. It's a bit random, available at McDonalds, and might not even really be ramen.

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Just as Los Angeles boasts the most O.G. hip hop in America, the Southern California city also boasts the most O.R. shops. Original Ramen LA could fill a blog of it's own, so what's new? Don't ask me, I only went to two shops. But the noodle scene in LA, maybe even the food scene in general, is a mess. That's LA for you. Perhaps some little shop from inaka comes in, thinking she's hot stuff, the new big thing, going straight to the top. Next thing you know, she's ladling tepid bowls of soup over mass-produced noodles in a Hollywood back-alley. Let's just say I had some bad ramen. Weather was nice though.

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San Francisco is a foodie's dreamland. California cuisine is the name of the game, and chefs are constantly trying to figure out how to fuse traditional Japanese with local ingredients and style. It's youthful and lighthearted here. Maybe I'm being biased towards my birthplace, but eating in San Francisco is fun.

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New York is where everyone in Japan dreams of making ramen. I don't know if this is because of the huge success of Ippudo, or just the parallels of Tokyo life with life in The Big Apple, but this is the proving ground. Get in line, because the best shops are packed with slow-slurping locals and authentic (authentic-ish) Japanese food.

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These shops all deserve pages of their own, which are forthcoming. But my views about ramen in Japan and ramen in America are very different. With thousands of shops in Tokyo alone, one needs guidance. You could never say, "Just try em all!" Not so in your American city. You could casually go to a shop a week and be done with your big city in no time.

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And if you are an avid reader of Ramen Adventures, you most likely have.

Our first stop . . . Hawaii!

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

井の庄 (Inosho in Nerima)

濃菜麺 井の庄

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Let's take a moment and switch gears. Though we can all agree that a thick tonkotsu-shoyu soup is ambrosia, the nectar of the gods, we might not be able to agree on which god is slurping away up in his (or her) kingdom.

If you look at my ancestry, it's a Jewish gd. If you look at my recent travels, I am a devout Buddhist. If you look at the hip hop on my iPod, I associate with Muslims. I've chanted with cults, sang gospel in churches, and been audited by Scientology. This stuff fascinates me, and when I have the time, I will listen to people's religious spiel.

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I ran into a group of 20 year old Mormons on their mission out on the Seibu line. Japan . . . not a bad place to be stuck for 2 years! Land of soy sauce and Mothra. They seized the chance to tell me more about their passion, and I took the chance to do the same. And that is how Elder Prince, Elder Zamarripa, Elder Reynolds, and I ended up at Inosho.

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Inosho has a fairly famous shop in Shakujikoen. Their spicy tsukemen has been ranked on the short-list of Tokyo's hottest. I was completely unprepared for the Inosho in Nerima.

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Jiro-kei?

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It would appear that way. I'm not the biggest fan of the garlic-ladden, male-sided Jiro style, but I'm in the clear minority. Inosho's stand-out difference was the atmosphere. Relaxed and friendly.

Get the ベジ topping. It's a bowl of cabbage and bean sprouts and extra that you dump in your ramen for a kick. The extra in question comes in 4 varieties. The ジロベジ was suggested by the staff. You can probably guess what comes with that.

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As the name jiro-vegi suggests, it's garlic, garlic, garlic.

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The spicy topping needs less of an explanation.

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The tomato-vegi topping looked popular with the ladies.

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Definitely an intense bowl, as all jiro-kei bowls are.

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Thanks guys! Hope you didn't get any soup on your white shirts.

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東京都練馬区練馬1-6-18
Tokyo, Nerima-ku, Nerima 1-6-18
Closest station: Nerima

Open 11:00-16:30, 17:30-1:30am
Sunday 11:00-16:30, 17:30-23:30

Friday, March 16, 2012

も一回ソラノイロ (Return to Soranoiro)

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Neat business card. I had a chance to talk with Miyazaki-san, tencho at Soranoiro. This place is extremely busy at lunch, but in the evening it is a bit more leisurely. A perfect time for some ramen talk. Even though they are known as one of the best newcomers on the shoyu-scene, I was compelled to sample the vegetable offering on my first visit. Very good, and worth a try.

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Get ready for some collaborations. At the time-of-slurping, Soranoiro was making a shio wontonmen with noodles from across-town ramen shop Nyaganyagatei.

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Everything but the noodles are from Soranoiro, by the way.

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Great looking men!

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Nice execution. The wonton were super good and super big. So big that any attempt to lift one with the spoon resulted in said wonton reverting back to it's base ingredients. Using chopsticks is near impossible.

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Though the shio was good, the shoyu was better. Smoky and rich, this is a satisfying bowl.

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I mentioned collaborations a minute ago. Get ready for a ton of the hottest ramen shops in Tokyo to not only do an April bonanza of collabs, but a stamp rally / point card . . . with prizes. I'll let you know more when I know more!

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My camera is incapable of taking good photos in other people's hand.