Thursday, February 26, 2015

ラーメン総選挙 - 2015 Ippudo Ramen Championship

ラーメン総選挙

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Global ramen force Ippudo recently held their third annual ramen competition. That's founder Kawahara-san (河原) above. Out of 176 entries, only 14 were invited to present their bowl to a jury of ramen professionals. I was honored to be invited as a judge, and though I approach ramen in general as fun food, I took this seriously. The winner would get 3,000,000 yen, about $30,000. Amazing.

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The theme this year was dashi. I think this follows the current trend of thinking in Tokyo's ramen scene; focus on something simple, while doing everything you can to extract as much umami flavors from your ingredients as possible. All of the ramen was fantastic. Here are some of the bowls.

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オレンジ香る鯛塩ラーメン~地中海の風~

Chef Suzuki-san (鈴木) crafted a tai and salt ramen with an aroma of orange peel. There were a lot of Italian influences, and the addition of an olive and sun-dried tomato paste added a lot of depth.

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うま味海苔出汁そば

Chef Kimura (木村) went super simple, and the roasted nori senbe on top was fragrant and beautiful. Under the nori was a kinchaku, a tofu bag filled with minced chicken and mushroom that exploded in flavor when ripped open. The soup went from simple and fragrant to intense and flavorful. Very cool.

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鯨丸

Chef Nakamura-san (中村) from Nagasaki used whale as his main ingredient. Whale can be a bit gamey, not something you would expect to be used as an ingredient in a light soup. But the chef's skill with a controversial ingredient from his hometown really came out in the end product.

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HIPPIE RAMEN ~Hollywood Legend~

Chef Isobe-san from Los Angeles based Tatsu Ramen made a vegan ramen. Wow, this was actually one of the best vegetarian ramen bowls I have ever tasted. I think if America can contribute one thing to the world of ramen in general, it is excellent vegetarian versions of a typically meaty dish.

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ALWAYS

Chef Sasahara-san (篠原) focused on things that have been and will always be good. Simple and delicious. I dug the softly scrambled egg, which melted into the soup and gave it a rich, eggy flavor.

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NORIDASU RAMEN (EMBARK)

Chef Conner Callahan is the kitchen supervisor at Ippudo in New York. Donning his colorful uniform, he came with a complex bowl that told the story of his connections with ramen and the sea. Three kinds of dashi, a dashi foam, and plenty of Italian influence from his childhood growing up in an Italian fishing village.

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GREEN TEA NOODLES

Chef Futa-san (太田) works at a tea shop, and made this playful macha ramen. She wanted slurpers to exclaim "Kawaii!" when they were served, and it sure worked. The taste wasn't sweet at all, instead tasted of a chicken soup base.

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The winner? Chef Kimura-san took home the prize. Congratulations, your bowl really shone. You will be able to try his ramen in Ippudo stores across the country soon. Here it is one more time.

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Check the video we made!

Monday, February 23, 2015

國松 (Kunimatsu in Hiroshima)

中華そば國松

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Kunimatsu came recommended by the chef at Musashibo, another local 汁なし担担麺 place. When the master at your favorite new shop says to go, you go. This is another one of Hiroshima's soupless tantanmen shops. The recent boom of this style remains a mystery. Clever marketing or something more?

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ZIP! Hey, I did that show before, I think. Maybe not.

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Pretty decent one here. As always, a small serving of noodles sitting in a spicy oil sauce. Moderate amounts of sansho pepper gave this one a little kick, and it went really well with a beer.

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Mix it up. Part of the Hiroshima shirunashi tantanmen scene is to put a bowl of rice into the leftover sauce. That might explain why the serving sizes were all quite small. Probably a tasty idea, but I was in foodie mode, what with the handy map I picked up.

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Having crushed three of them, plus the King-Ken popup in Ginza, I feel like I did Hiroshima's soupless scene a little justice. See you next year!

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Map of 広島県広島市中区八丁堀8-10

広島県広島市中区八丁堀8-10
Hiroshima-ken, Hiroshima-shi, Naka-ku, Hatchobori 8-10
Closest station: Tatemachi on the Street Car

Open 11:00-15:00, 17:00-20:00
Closed Sundays

Thursday, February 19, 2015

きさく (Kisaku in Hiroshima)

きさく

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Kisaku was the soupless tantanmen that every random person I spoke with recommended.

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A bit out of the way, though easy to get to on Hiroshima's local streetcar.

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It barely fits on the official Hiroshima shirunashi tantanmen map.

The menu, like that of any specialty shop, is small. Hot or cold. That's pretty much it. You can get different sizes, and I was the only person who didn't go with the double size bowl.

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As always, mix it up. Dry noodles, a little spicy sauce, and some sparse toppings.

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To be honest, I wasn't feeling this one. It was cheap and tasty, but I don't think I can recommend anyone who doesn't live in Hiroshima spend the time to make it out here. Most travelers have limited time in this town, and should stick more to the downtown.

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Map of 広島県広島市中区舟入川口町5-13

広島県広島市中区舟入川口町5-13
Hiroshima-ken, Hiroshima-shi, Chu-ku, Funairikawaguchicho 5-13
Closest station: Funairisaiwaicho on the Street Car

Open 11:00-14:00, 18:00-20:00
Sundays 11:00-15:00
Closed Wednesdays