無頼庵 (Buraian in Kyodo)

無頼庵



I am NOT a Jirorian. A Jirorian cares not for the stink of garlic that seeps from his pores. A Jirorian can pinpoint the minor differences between the Jiro branch in Nishi-Shinjuku and the Jiro branch in Kabukuicho, a five minute walk away. A Jirorian thinks that bean sprouts count as a healthy topping.



And when a new Jiro-style shop opens, I don't really care.

But when a Jiro-style shop called Buraian opens, I take note. Because that is my name! I'm Brian!



In typical Jiro-style fashion, a single shred of cabbage was the only spec of health in this bowl. In typical fashion, I felt like crap after eating it. In typical fashion, the soup is rich and porky and delicious.



Then I was hit was some of the best news of 2013. I asked the master what 無頼庵 means. 無頼 - burai - means villainy, non-trust. 庵- an - means hermitage. Put them together, and buraian means desperado. A bad-ass dude, living day to day by his own rules.

When I first came to Japan, some Japanese friends wrote my name as 武雷安, a nonsense grouping of Chinese characters for samurai, thunder, and cheap.

I'll take desperado any day.





東京都世田谷区経堂2-14-13
Tokyo, Setagaya-ku, Kyodo 2-14-13
Closest station: Kyodo

Open 11:30-15:00, 18:00-22:00

潮 (Ushio in Ogawamachi)

潮



The annual new shop awards have been handed out, and Ushio took top marks in the tori paitain category. Creamy chicken ramen is often the base for some unique bowls, and Ushio goes a little overboard with their toppings.



Bacon-wrapped asparagus, poached egg, and a dollop of garlic butter.



Yeah, this one is a winner. I'm shocked, though, that the number one spot wasn't given to Kagari in Ginza. While this bowl at Ushio is fantastic, the novelty of those toppings would get real old, real fast.





東京都千代田区神田淡路町2-4-4-B1F
Tokyo, Chiyoda-ku, Kandaawajicho 2-4-4

Open 7:00-19:00
Closed Mondays

長尾中華そば (Nagao in Aomori)

長尾中華そば 西バイパス本店



8:00am - Haneda Airport.
9:30am - Aomori Airport.
10:00am - Taxi to the performance hall.
4:00pm - Work is done, with exactly two hours of free time until the train to the next city.

Perfect timing to grab the most famous bowl in Aomori Prefecture.



I wasn't the first ramen nut to come to Nagao.



And some locals come here almost every week! There are bowls labeled with people's names all over the shop. If you sign up for a members card and get 1000 points, you get you own bowl. That's about 150 bowls. Dedication.



But I was just in town for a minute, with just enough time for one.

From the 裏メニュー, the secret menu. Sure, you can go with a standard item, like the light asari ramen, or even the heavier kotteri, bu if you ask for the ura-menu, you'll get the max amount of niboshi possible.

Nagao made their name with heavy niboshi flavors, a trend that is all the rage in Tokyo these days.



Intense.



The idea of dried sardines as the main flavor in a bowl of ramen might sound off-putting to some foodies. Sardines, of course, are one of the most fishy smelling flavors of the sea. But by drying them, and boiling them for just the right amount of time, you get a smoky richness that is unparalleled in the food world.

And due to strict laws about importing dried fish from Japan to America, you aren't likely to find a bowl like this anytime soon. As was explained to me, dried fish needs to have all the guts removed to make it into the States, an impossibility for niboshi. Take advantage if you are in Japan. And if you can't make it up to Aomori, Nagi in Shinjuku does a good one.



Official Site Here





青森県青森市三好2-3-5 ガーラタウン内
Aomori-ken, Aomori-shi, Miyoshi 2-3-5
Closest station: Shin-Aomori

Open 7:00-22:00
Friday 11:00-22:00